Tea Horse Road Chronicles – Part 5 – The Load

A continuation of some of the embedded moments – both large and small – of our 7.5 month expedition to chart and document the Tea Horse Road.

Along the Tea Horse Road, the careful daily ritual of loading and unloading of commodities was considered an art form. Securing loads that didn’t chafe animals with too tightly bound a harness, was just as important a skill as securing it ‘just’ tightly enough that the loads didn’t tip or unbind. Here a nomadic host of our team readies our mules as we prepare one morning. It is still an honour to assist in the loading (Tibetan: “gyap’kè”) and unloading (known as “gyap’po”), upon the Tibetan Plateau and still a skill taught to young children. Many a time I’ve been politely, but firmly, shoved aside by men, women, and children as I try and contribute to the loading process. I have over the years timed locals as they competently strap commodities and gear atop yak, mules, and horses. On average they are three times faster than I’ve ever been, and their loads are far less likely to go wonky on the journey than mine. Skills of the mountains matter and so do too the codes of welcoming and farewells.

About JeffFuchs

Having lived for a decade in Yunnan, Fuchs’ work has centred on indigenous mountain cultures, oral histories along with an obsessive interest in tea. Fuchs is the author of 'The Ancient Tea Horse Road' (Viking-Penguin) and he was the subject of 'The Tea Explorer' documentary based on his exploration of the Tea Horse Road. His photos and stories have appeared on three continents in publications such as Kyoto Journal, TRVL, and Outpost Magazine, as well as The Spanish Expedition Society, The Earth, Silkroad Foundation, The China Post Newspaper, The Toronto Star, The South China Morning Post, and UNESCO amongst others. Various pieces of his work are part of private collections in Europe, North America, and Asia. Fuchs served as Asian Editor at Large for five years at award-winning Outpost magazine. Jeff has worked with schools and universities, giving talks on both the importance of oral traditions, tea and mountain cultures. His recently released book ‘The Ancient Tea Horse Road’ (Penguin-Viking Publishers) details his 8-month groundbreaking journey traveling and chronicling one of the world’s great trade routes, The Tea Horse Road. Fuchs is the first westerner to have completed the entire route stretching almost six thousand kilometers through the Himalayas a dozen cultures. Fuchs partnered with Wild China to create a journey along the Tea Horse Road which National Geographic Traveler called one of the "50 Trips of a Lifetime". He is co-founder of Akahiao Nature Institute on the island of Hawai'i along with his wife, Julie Rogers.
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2 Responses to Tea Horse Road Chronicles – Part 5 – The Load

  1. How true! During a trek in China ten years ago with 2 and sometimes 3 horses/mules, one for our gear and one or two to sit on, I observed the ritual between owner and horse/mule of their teamwork for optimum comfort and safety.