Tag Archives: Expedition
Prostration and the Town of Thieves
Jana is one of those towns that looks to be embarrassed with itself, somehow inward looking with its newly built homes falling into disrepair and a winding dusty road that is littered with refuse. We one depart it one … Continue reading
A Devil’s River of Heat
The kora, for Buddhists and Hindus, circumambulating in a clockwise direction follows the apparent movement of the sun. The sun in question is now hidden as we wake in the camp of Chube’ka. Tucked into the valley there is … Continue reading
First Steps and a Phalanx of Bodies
In their wonderfully tangible way mountains introduce, stymie and beckon. Heading northwest from Gyalthang (Zhongdian) through rows of brown folds Michael and I drop in altitude into the ‘rongba’ (valley towns) of hot valley floors only to ascend again into … Continue reading
A Nomadic Mountain and a Yak God – Genyen and Brongri
Brongri is a mountain god that is only called upon when nomadic disputes have reached a level when they cannot be solved by the mortal will. It should be noted that the Tibetan nomadic mortal will, whether in pursuit … Continue reading
A bus, A Cherub and More Hills
Gansa is no more – back to Xining and onto one of those bizarre 15 hour bus rides that become like their own little worlds. Bunk beds and cell phones everywhere and a populace of forty-five or so that … Continue reading
Mr. Lu’s Dong Ding – A Flight of Taiwanese Fancy in Qinghai
Days of wandering the mountains and the sturdy nomadic corridors of Qinghai and Gansu have brought Taiwan’s world of lush Oolongs to my mind, though there are little external or obvious links…perhaps it is simply a ‘thirst’. Years have passed … Continue reading
Horses, Blue and a Rail
Qinghai or for the Tibetans, Amdo – Michael and I have entered from the eastern Gansu border by that ‘everywhere’ mode of transportation in this part of the world, the bus. The struggle is as usual present; coming out of … Continue reading
Jeff Fuchs to headline “Explore” Series at Bookworm in Beijing
Delighted to be the opening speaker at the Bookworm’s Explorer Series this coming August 2011, in Beijing. Privileged to be able to share. Will be talking (and on occasion ranting) about two routes (and their precious people and memories) … Continue reading
The Way of Heights
Informality amongst nomads, and that feeling of immediate and informal acceptance comes from their own necessary and inevitable informality amongst themselves. Sickness, births, joy and efforts are shared in real time every day of every season. Bonds are strong … Continue reading
Yaks, Creases and Nomads
The man we pick up in Nyimalung has the calm eyes and weathered face that the mountains create and sculpt almost at will. Songjem is in his early sixties and his face and countenance have a lived in quality that … Continue reading