It was from this patch of grassland near Napa Lake, just north of my home in Dukezong (old town of ‘Shangrila’) that our expedition departed. Kit, maps, dried goods, 3 kg’s of Puerh in brick and cake form, and a relief that finally we would actually physically commence a journey that was three years in the making…all of these elements were present. It was a still day of cool, grey nothing and the Tea Horse Road seemed in many ways but a memory in many of the elders minds. No winds, no glowing mountain sun, no anthems, no snow and no partying or grand send off. A slate grey canopy that said little, enveloped everything. At last, before our departure, a last vital: a blessing. It involved a lama and two monks from the local Songtsanling Monastery. Mantras to the protective deities, chanting, gossip, laughs, and heaps of butter tea were shared, before finally some words from the elder of the monks (at far left in yellow tuque) that told of the ‘perils’ of journeys along the Tea Horse Road. Two pieces of advice that sealed this particular moment were: “Don’t fall in love on the route”, and “When in doubt wait. When you are lost in the mountains you must sit and think with your good brain….think!” We would sit and think a lot on the journey, get lost a lot, and fall in love a few times. The monk’s words would clang around in the mind on most days of our 7.5 month journey and this image fixes that moment back into the sacred moment of ‘now’…at least briefly.
About JeffFuchs
Having lived for a decade in Yunnan, Fuchs’ work has centred on indigenous mountain cultures, oral histories along with an obsessive interest in tea.
Fuchs is the author of 'The Ancient Tea Horse Road' (Viking-Penguin) and he was the subject of 'The Tea Explorer' documentary based on his exploration of the Tea Horse Road.
His photos and stories have appeared on three continents in publications such as Kyoto Journal, TRVL, and Outpost Magazine, as well as The Spanish Expedition Society, The Earth, Silkroad Foundation, The China Post Newspaper, The Toronto Star, The South China Morning Post, and UNESCO amongst others. Various pieces of his work are part of private collections in Europe, North America, and Asia. Fuchs served as Asian Editor at Large for five years at award-winning Outpost magazine.
Jeff has worked with schools and universities, giving talks on both the importance of oral traditions, tea and mountain cultures.
His recently released book ‘The Ancient Tea Horse Road’ (Penguin-Viking Publishers) details his 8-month groundbreaking journey traveling and chronicling one of the world’s great trade routes, The Tea Horse Road. Fuchs is the first westerner to have completed the entire route stretching almost six thousand kilometers through the Himalayas a dozen cultures.
Fuchs partnered with Wild China to create a journey along the Tea Horse Road which National Geographic Traveler called one of the "50 Trips of a Lifetime".
He is co-founder of Akahiao Nature Institute on the island of Hawai'i along with his wife, Julie Rogers.
I give thanks to memories brought to us by Jeff’s words and photos – and I give thanks to TEA! I am appreciating Jeff’s mini-revisits to these faraway, enchanted realms…(with my Jalam Tea stash dwindling…)
Beautiful words and thoughts Lynne. Dwindling tea stocks are not good. We’re in the process of receiving and reviving our model. We’ll be updating in a couple of weeks, and look forward to updating that little Jalamteas’ stash. Stay well Lynne.